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Most of us can relate to the fun we had canoeing at summer camp when we were young. But that was nothing compared to the experience of whitewater kayaking that came next for me. I have always loved canoeing, though it always seemed difficult to participate. It has only been in the last decade that the development of inflatable canoes has made a big difference. You can more easily access rivers, you can store a canoe in your car, you can even take them on a plane. They are very light, very cheap, with little loss of functionality. Perfect for weekends away or campervan holidays. Social networking was the other big change. You can now use Facebook, etc to join canoeing adventures in your local region or abroad.

Inflatable Canoeing Adventures eBook - download the table of contents here for this eBook - available for just $US7.95. See my Inflatable Canoeing blog.

Saturday, November 17, 2007

The economics of campervanning

I have yet to go campervanning in NZ but the plans are coming together. Its a toss up whether I go from Perth to Sydney, or alot of shorter trips around NZ. If I'm going to NZ then I definitely want an inflatable canoe with me so I can so some canoeing. See http://inflatable-tours.blogspot.com. I think for that reason alone I would like to have family with me. One of the great aspects of campervanning is the capacity to take a group with you, with no incremental extra cost other than food, personal expenses. It thus makes a great holiday for less well-endowed Asians or Australians wanting a new experience. Of course you still have to get family to the point of origination and back to your point of entering the country. Fortunately discounr airlines are making that a little easier, and you might get lucky and be able to organise a cheap backhaul with a campervan. Its probably even worthwhile paying for a full rental just and doing a quick trip rather than flying 2-4 people back to home base. Maybe a car rental will be a better option for the backhaul. Everything depends on the distance. You can do Sydney-Brisbane or Sydney-Melbourne in a (long) day, so you dont need a sleeper, but even so the cost of travelling by rental is likely to be cheaper than flying, and alot more interesting if you cover new territory.
There is no reason why you can't do a partial backhaul. For instance, you might be able to get a camper returm from Darwin-Sydney. Since they need more campers in Sydney, you are unlikely to get a Backhaul from Sydney-Darwin. What is possible however is a Brisbane-Darwin, but likely in a dfferent vehicle class. I prefer the smaller vehicles, but if I am in the Outback of Australia, or even NZ, I would not care, as you have plenty of space and no competing traffic to worry about. You have insurance, but I worry about those disclaimers. I'd hate the idea of not being covered if something goes wrong. These campers are worth anything from $A20-80,000 new.

If you are doing a backhaul of a campervan the trip cost is likely to be around $50/day for extra petrol plus $25/day for meals. Of course you can skimp on meals, eat bread and water to get this lower. If you are doing a full rental, the daily rental rate will depend on the seasonal demand, but it can easily triple your costs because you are not getting the fuel subsidy ($30-50/day) and of course you are paying $80-120/day for the vehicle rental as opposed to $1-5/day doing a backhal. When I crossed Australia I was going to supermarkets every opportunity to buy foods to keep costs down, as I want to sell the idea to people who dont have the financial resources to travel. So the foods to eat - I like:
1. Tetrapak juices - though tap water would be adequate if you dont mind it not cold. You can always wind the window down for air conditioning.
2. Bread & spreads: I like those tuna spreads, Nutella, peanut butter. It gets a little hot in the car so you want spreads that will keep.
3. Fruit & vege: I would happily eat a carrot and bananas, but its a waste buying more than what you can eat because they will deteriorate in the sun. So its best if you can do you shopping in the morning.

I would typically go to a pub at nights for a social outlet, a beer and they usually have cheap meals as well. The old 'club' used to be good value for meals as well, but thats only in the smaller towns. In the larger towns they are well supported by gambling.

In outback Australia there are not so many full service supermarkets like Woolworths or Coles. The exceptions are the large cities. For that reason you are relying on the smaller outlets like IGA and Farmers Best. I was surprised to find out that prices by these buisinesses have fallen a great deal. I ca remember always paying too much at these 'independents'. They are very reasonably priced now despite high fuel costs.

Thursday, November 15, 2007

Places to stay in Sydney

Part of running a good website is giving people excuses to visit your website. We all want to live in the best place in the world. Sadly because of job or visa constraints, some of us can only visit. So if you have the opportunity to visit Sydney, foremost you will realise that it’s a place to enjoy the outdoors. You don’t have to like Australians because there is plenty of space to get away from them, and tourists for that matter. By getting away I am talking about bushwalks and beachwalks – punctuated by the well-timed swim. Although beaches and waterways might be busy in Sydney, once you step outside Sydney, you will find beaches with scarcely any sign of people. If you are visiting Sydney, you might consider any of the following approaches: By plane or vehicle (see my posting on campervan hire).
By campervan
If you are coming to Sydney via campervan I suggest staying at one of several parks around Sydney Harbour. There are not many parks in Sydney with showers, but over time I will add to this list. There are 3 varieties of accommodation I recommend:
1. Harbour park with toilet & shower: Some recreational parks along the foreshore of Sydney Harbour have toilets and showers for the benefit of swimmers. These are good places to stay overnight if they are close to ferry and you don’t intend to return overnight.
a. Sirius Cove, Mosman is an attractive place in Sydney with parking for campervan, plus toilets and showers, and close proximity to Taronga Zoo ferry & facilities. Its just 5km from main shopping areas of Mosman and Neutral Bay.
b. Others: No others found yet.
2. Train stations with toilet: Its easy enough to find a train station with toilets, and there is usually a pub nearby anyway, but if you are planning on spending nights in the city, and will be coming home late, I recommend parking your campervan at a train station, as trains run later than regular government bus services, and are replaced by contractors after 1AM (Nightride service). You might be able to get a shower at a nearby public swimming pool. Try to avoid private homes as they might dispair if they see lights on in vehicles in the middle of the night if they come home.
a. Artarmon Station: Find a quiet avenue on the west side of Artarmon Station, as this station is close to the city. Basic services are readily available.
b. Woolstonecraft Station: Its even closer to the city, but streets are narrow. There are fewer shops here and its harder to find.
c. Pymble Station: This is further away from the city
d. Epping Station: This station is far out but has the benefit of express train services to the city via Stratfield.
Personally I would stay on the North Shore for safety reasons. There tends to be yobbos elsewhere around stations. The North Shore stations has quiet residential stations.
Hotel accommodation
Well if you want an upmarket hotel I recommend the Wentworth Hotel and Grace Hotel in Sydney. Backpacker/pub accommodation
If you are planning to stay here on a budget, I would opt for the backpackers at Newtown, Kings Cross or Central Stations. All these places are close to the city by train, bus or even walking. You might otherwise consider Bondi Junction (popular for foreigners) or Rockdale (close to the airport).
If you are flying into Sydney, take the Airport train to one of the latter destinations. You can book any of these places on the internet – just search for the place name + backpackers, and you should get several choices.

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

The pros & cons of campervanning

Campervans are without a doubt the best land-based way to travel. But campervans are not all the same, so great thought needs to be given to which vehicle model, design and features are suitable to your needs. A great deal of thought needs to go into your buying decision, and it would be imprudent not to actual test run a few campervans before you buy, to at least give you an understanding of the important issues.

Benefits of a campervan
The benefits will very much depend on the type of campervan you get - particularly in terms of features and storage capacity. Based on a 2.4-litre Ford Transit based chassis, I would suggest the benefits are:
1. Low touring costs - low cost of transport, accommodation and food (eat in option)
2. Flexible location - you have a choice about where you stay (within a security constraint), and these can be attractive beach locations or mountain peaks. Its incredibly easy to pull off a main road an just park where there is housing for security. But just for one night, otherwise people ask questions. You need to move on the next day and be sure to park elsewhere (>3km) away the next day. Park in non-residential areas from 7AM-9PM, and residential areas from 9PM to 7AM.
3. Lifestyle advantages: Campervans give you alot of freedom, relaxation. They dont offer the asset appreciation of a holiday house, but they are alot more flexible in terms of travel destinations.

Disadvantages of a campervan
The disadvantages of a campervan are:
1. Storage constraint vs mobility/flexibility: You can't have a large storage capacity if you want an offroad vehicle. You can't have a city vehicle if you want to carry alot of extras, such as bicycles, microwaves, air conditioners, etc.
2. Security issues: You need to be concerned about where you park and the risk of property theft/damage. There is no neighbourhood watch with campervans, in fact you might get kids of residents scratching your vehicle because they consider you impinging on their 'million dollar' view. If you impinge where others have, you might cope the rebutal.
3. Livability concerns: Its hard to imagine staying in a campervan for long periods of time. You cant easily relax at night without going to a club or pub. It would be too confining to stay in a campervan for long periods, but in many countries there are options. eg. Public libraries, sports clubs, public swimming pools. Some of these are open for extended hours, and offer free/subsidised member services. Another issue is personal hygiene. Can you live in a campervan without a toilet or shower. Having these options reduces road flexibility, but there are public and commercial facilities if you know where they are. eg. Clubs, sports clubs, public swimming pools, beaches, etc.
4. Mobility: This is a concern if you would like to stay in a specific location for a protracted period. Neighbours and locals start to notice you, and you attract negative attention. Its less personal in tourist locations abnd large urban areas. There is also the pressure of having to worry with where you will stay at night though I have never found this a big concern, and increasingly GPS devices are allowing people to share locations, but revisiting a location can actually be a curse, as you attract negative attention.

Does a campervan meet my requirements?
The types of questions I would be looking to ask are:
1. What type of conditions will I be using my campervan?
If you are a retired person with health limitations you might have no great sense of adventure compelling you to get off-road, so you might be willing to sacrifice off-road capability to retain the home comforts of a larger campervan. If you intend to take your vehicle off-road, you might want to consider a high clearance, short wheel-base model with low roof to avoid trees. Longer vehicles are also difficult to park in urban areas, particularly if you intend to attach a trailer, so this should be addressed if you plan to tour in densely populated areas. In these areas, you might prefer a more discrete mode of living so you dont attract the attention of vandals, delinquents or drunks.
2. How reliable does the vehicle need to be?
If you have health issues you might prefer a newer vehicle from a reputable manufacturer.
3. How much can I afford, or should I spend?
A campervan can save you alot of money on travelling, and maybe the cost of living if you intend to live in it for a protracted period. Otherwise a campervan is a depreciating asset with a poor re-sale value for the premium-priced, factory-made vehicles offered in the market. It might be prudent to consider custom-building your own campervan by buying a chasis and fitting it out. Depending on your handyman skills, it might not look so good, but it will be flexible and low-cost.
4. How reasonable are my expectations of campervanning?
Unless you actually do some campervanning for more than a week I think its difficult to gauge how you will enjoy the lifestyle. You also need to consider the loneliness, or if you intend to take a partner, you need to consider how they will cope. Aside from using a campervan, you can plan your typical day and ponder whether you can tolerate the conditions, or find ways around it. eg. If its a very hot day, do you have a strategy for working. What will you do at night time? Can you run enough batteries to power your electricity demands? How long can you go without a shower? Are the campervan or ancillary amenities good enough? Are you worried about security whilst you are touring?
5. What will I do if I don't like campervanning, or if I don't like the vehicle, or my lifestyle changes?
A campervan is a significant investment. The typical vehicle ranges from $US20,ooo to $100,000. If you are unsure whether you will enjoy the life, or you have doubts about whether you will be using the vehicle long term, whether because you might settle down, have children, travel, etc, then you might be better off opting for a more flexible 'weekender' style vehicle, or a lower cost (perhaps older) vehicle.
6. How much flexibility does the vehicle need to display?
Its best to look for some flexibility when purchasing a campervan. I personally would prefer a van that offers some off-road capacity, but which also has adequate storage & feature space for long distance touring. This gives you the choice of using the vehicle for weekend trips or longer trips. It occurred to me that people living in the country might welcome the opportunity to use a campervan for the occasional city visit. They might use it to go to the theatre in the city, staying in the vehicle for a night or two.
7. What is my budget for operating costs?
One of the most compelling reasons for buying a campervan is the cot savings from travelling, but that benefit is lost if you live at home as well (thus sacrifice rent), or you dont use the vehicle, or if you use the vehicle, but end up compromising the benefits by staying in caravan parks for $30-50/night. You should be able to make savings on food, accommodation and transport particularly if you have your own group to socialise with. But its easy to forget about the loss of home comforts if you compromise too much on storage space. Another issue is the engine size. Consideration should be given to getting a 1.6-1.8-litre engine to reduce fuel costs.

Sydney to Brisbane, Australia (1300km)

This is the 2nd campervanning trip I have performed with a 'returns' vehicle with www.standbycars.com.au. This company is a JV between Maui & Britz Campervan Rentals. Basically they are offering people with a drivers licence over the age of 25yo the opportunity to return their campervans to another office because they have an unfavourable distribution of campervans around the country - whether Australia or NZ. The inducememts they offer are a 500km return allowance, $150-$300 of petrol allowance depending on the distance (1000-4500km) and a nominal rental charge of $5-10/day, compared to $80-120/day for a full-paying customer. I thought it was a good deal, even if you are constrained to return the vehicle within 3-8 days depending on the distance (usually requiring 300-500km a day). There are pretty stiff insurance risks if you breach the terms so read the online contract. Pay particular attention to windscreen damage and implication of hitting kangaroos if you intend travelling around dust-dawn. The shorter trips are particularly attractive, and you might just get lucky and be able to line up a return trip on similar terms. Otherwise you will need to fly back on a discount airline for $150-250/pp. The airlines to check out are http://www.jetstar.com.au/, http://www.virginblue.com.au/ plus some of the international airlines that stop at domestic ports, eg. Thai Airlines has onward flights from Brisbane to Sydney.



Anyway my trip started at Mascot near Sydney Airport. The Britz pick-up office is an easy walk from Mascot Railway Station on the Easthills-Airport Line, perhaps requiring a change at Wynyard-Town Hall-Central.



VW Caddy Life Specs

On this trip I took my girlfriend. We knew that we would be getting a VW Caddy Life, which were were able to look at on the Britz website before travelling. Its a very small vehicle with a 1.6-litre engine, so it gets amazing fuel economy. The vehicle is well designed, holds well on the road, and is not so under-powered considering its small engine. I guess the things I didn't like about the vehicle is:

1. The long wheel base - for such a short car - means less clearance off-road

2. The lack of space for more storage and a 60-litre fridge (with 3-4 deep cycle batteries)

3. Problematic gear change stepping down - might go the automatic



The things I liked:

1. Good steering-road holding

2. Large tires...I'm not physicist, but does that contribute to the excellent fuel economy. I seemed to get about 600km to the tank.

3. Compact size - if you forget the negative for storage

4. Ability to comfortably seat 4 and sleep 2 with luggage.

5. Great interior design, not to mention sliding doors on both sides (4-door)

6. Good inclination of front windscreen to prevent damage from stones



In conclusion this vehicle makes a great country car if you instend to use it for weekend trips to the coast or the city. I found the gear changing problematic, but maybe that can be overcome. I didn't after 3 days.



The Route

You can travel from Sydney to Brisbane in about 950km, however we went into the mountains so we ended up taking 1350km. They complained, yet I was within my 1500km allowance. The route I chose took us up into the mountains before going back to the coast. The route was:

1. Day 1: SYD-Mascot-Raymond Terrace-Gloucester-Taree-Lake Cathie-Lighthouse Beach-Port Macquarie

2. Day 2: Port Macquarie-Wauchope-Walcha-Uralla-Armidale-Ebor-Grafton

3. Day 3: Grafton-Casino-Beaudesert-BRIS



The highlights of the trip are the green hills and mountains of rural Australia and the beaches. I recommend going horse riding at Cobark (50km west of Gloucester) if you have time. I did it on another trip and its a great experience. Or you could canoe on the Barrington River after rain - also to the west - turn left off the Scone road before you cross the Barrington River. There is a canoe hire place 12km along this road. Otherwise you can just drive through an look at the nice scenery.



If you are coming from a developing country you will particularly like the driving and getting away from everything. Lighthouse Beach south of Port Macquarie would have to be one of the best beaches I know for walking. Why? Its flat, its 30-40km long, its high-energy offshore, but low-energy nearshore, so it sounds wild, but otherwise nice to wade through. Its quiet. You will probably cross paths with just 10-20 people, and its long so you will loose track of time. I paricularly like walking there in the early morning or late afternoon.

At Flynns Beach just south of Port Macquarie, you can walk south from the headland (before Shelleys Beach). This track links 3 beaches together - I like the last best because its so unspoilt and wild. Leah wanted to stay the night in a hotel - so we went to the cheapest in town - the Macquarie Hotel for $50 - share bathroom. You can get a pub meal there for $10-12 or a kabab along the main street. But there are nice restaurants closer to the river near the Macquarie Hotel.

The drive from Port Macquarie to Walcha takes you up the Great Dividing Range. Sadly there are no great walks along this stretch of Oxley Highway, as its a scenic area. But its a nice drive, though it has 60km of hair-pin turns so take petrol. Once you get on the plateau its easy riding. There is a nice coffee shop in Walcha and IGA to get food. We kept going, picking up some tourist information at Uralla. Stopped briefly in Armidale library to use the internet then travelled onto Grafton via Ebor. There is a waterfall at Ebor but there was no water because of the drought, just alot of annoying flies. Its quite a spectacular gorge, and there are about 12 of them in the region like that. The drive onto Grafton was very remote. Nice countryside, but no cultural intetest. In Grafton we ate food we already had in the car, and I walked around Grafton while Leah slept. I packed the car in the pub for security. Grafton is a nice town, with wide, tree-lined streets, and old houses. It really is unloved, I think because its remote from Brisbane & Sydney, its away from the coast (beaches) and there are few jobs there. After returning, we moved to a residential street, parked outside a church, and slept. Close to Leah and God. Quite a trio dont you think!

The next morning we drove on towards Casino, where we ate breakfast at McDonalds. We next drove NNW towards Beaudessert, crossing the ranges (Qld border) near Lions Gap. The roads deteriorated going into Queensland, and the rest was a bit of a rush to get into Brisbane.

The best camper sites in Sydney

Part of running a good website is giving people excuses to visit your website. We all want to live in the best place in the world. Sadly because of job or visa constraints, some of us can only visit. So if you have the opportunity to visit Sydney, foremost you will realise that it’s a place to enjoy the outdoors. You don’t have to like Australians because there is plenty of space to get away from them, and tourists for that matter. By getting away I am talking about bushwalks and beachwalks – punctuated by the well-timed swim. Although beaches and waterways might be busy in Sydney, once you step outside Sydney, you will find beaches with scarcely any sign of people. If you are visiting Sydney, you might consider any of the following approaches: By plane or vehicle (see my posting on campervan hire).
By campervan
If you are coming to Sydney via campervan I suggest staying at one of several parks around Sydney Harbour. There are not many parks in Sydney with showers, but over time I will add to this list. There are 3 varieties of accommodation I recommend:
1. Harbour park with toilet & shower: Some recreational parks along the foreshore of Sydney Harbour have toilets and showers for the benefit of swimmers. These are good places to stay overnight if they are close to ferry and you don’t intend to return overnight.
a. Sirius Cove, Mosman is an attractive place in Sydney with parking for campervan, plus toilets and showers, and close proximity to Taronga Zoo ferry & facilities. Its just 5km from main shopping areas of Mosman and Neutral Bay.
b. Others: No others found yet.
2. Train stations with toilet: Its easy enough to find a train station with toilets, and there is usually a pub nearby anyway, but if you are planning on spending nights in the city, and will be coming home late, I recommend parking your campervan at a train station, as trains run later than regular government bus services, and are replaced by contractors after 1AM (Nightride service). You might be able to get a shower at a nearby public swimming pool. Try to avoid private homes as they might dispair if they see lights on in vehicles in the middle of the night if they come home.
a. Artarmon Station: Find a quiet avenue on the west side of Artarmon Station, as this station is close to the city. Basic services are readily available.
b. Woolstonecraft Station: Its even closer to the city, but streets are narrow. There are fewer shops here and its harder to find.
c. Pymble Station: This is further away from the city
d. Epping Station: This station is far out but has the benefit of express train services to the city via Stratfield.
Personally I would stay on the North Shore for safety reasons. There tends to be yobbos elsewhere around stations. The North Shore stations has quiet residential stations.
Hotel accommodation
Well if you want an upmarket hotel I recommend the Wentworth Hotel and Grace Hotel in Sydney. Backpacker/pub accommodation
If you are planning to stay here on a budget, I would opt for the backpackers at Newtown, Kings Cross or Central Stations. All these places are close to the city by train, bus or even walking. You might otherwise consider Bondi Junction (popular for foreigners) or Rockdale (close to the airport).
If you are flying into Sydney, take the Airport train to one of the latter destinations. You can book any of these places on the internet – just search for the place name + backpackers, and you should get several choices.

Campervan Trip - Darwin to Sydney (4500km)

I recently had to fly back to Sydney from the Philippines. Rather than do a straight flight for $US850 return, I decided to fly with Tiger Airlines, a discount Singapore & Melbourne-based airline. I booked online for $A260 - one way, but strict conditions apply. But since there were alot of vacant seats I first booked a campervan to travel from Darwin to Sydney. Britz-Maui operate a 'returns service' in Australia and NZ - see www.standbycars.com.au - which allows you to rent a camper for attractive concessional rates.
I paid $5/day, a $15 booking fee, a refundable $50 holding deposit, and a $1000 bond on my credit card to cover any damage. You can pay an insurance premium to lower your excess in case of damage. You have a limited selection of van types available. I wanted a small 2-man hi-top type, but was instead stuck with a larger 2man Sprint with toilet/shower. There are several things I didn't like:
1. There was no map in the vehicle - small issue
2. They want to charge you $19 for checking the gas in the cooker tank. Even if you dont use it - they want to charge you. I told them to use a 'security sticker' like they use for airport luggage. So they can see if people have opened the gas compartment. Simple solution.
3. You are responsible for any windshield glass breakage - which you have very little control over
4. The contract is poorly structured for users - not giving you a clear picture where you stand
5. You dont know what to expect to a large degree - though it is a cheap offer if all goes well. In my case I had 8 days to go 4000km, and they give me an extra 500km excess, above which I would pay a $0.5/km excess.

Having taken just a few diversions (Edith Falls, Daly River pub, misdirection at the NSW border, I finished my trip with about 150km to spare. The big loss was not having enough kms to visit Kakadu National Park and not stopping at Katherine Gorge, though there will be a next time. I went:
a. Day 1: Darwin - Edith Falls - Katherine - Mataranka Thermal Springs (camped in the free Day Parking area). Darwin has some nice places to go out. Beer is pricey at $5-6 a bottle. Patty O'Shea's Irish Pub had great live band. I originally intended to stay in Katherine but the aboriginal AFL team beat the local 'white fellas' so were out drinking. They threw a can at my parked van so decided to move on. Decided instead to stay at the thermal pools so I could have a morning swim instead. Edith Falls wasn't special, but the areas was scenic. I passed up the chance of going to Katherine Gorge. That was a mistake, and I would recommend that instead of Edith Falls, even though its a longer drive in.
b. Day 2: Mataranka Thermal Springs - Daly River - Tennant Creek - Threeways. The highlight of this section was the Daly River pub. They were having a rodeo that day. Although I would have liked to stay, I got there at 10AM, and there was alot of ground to cover. It would be an understatement to say it has style, as the walls are covered in bras and other 'accessories'. I went to the Sports Club in Tennant Creek, which was a good opportunity to experience aborigines and country folk socialising. They seemed to get along great, but apparently the abos become very aggressive when the alcohol kicks in, so there will be fights later. I decided to stay at a small town (Threeways instead) after a lovely dinner at the Sports Club. After having things thrown at my car I found it difficult to sleep.
c. Day 3: Threeways - Barkley Homestead - Mt Isa: Get as much petrol as you can in the NT at Threeways ($1.45/L) because it will be $1.76/litre at Barkley Homestead, and the next stop. Same for food...stock up in Katherine or Tennant Creek. I enjoyed the drive for the first few hundred kms, but it got a little monotonous. Basically you are dropping into the Georgina Basin, then you enter the Barkley Ranges of the Mt Isa district. Mt Isa is a lovely town. People are friendly, the aborigines well behaved (as have jobs), and it has good facilities. The mountains is this areas are very scenic and the low sun makes the area even more alluring. I took a shower in the local public swimming pool and ate Chinese takeaway.
d. Day 4: Mt Isa - Cloncurry - McKinley - Longreach - Barcaldine - Blackall. I did alot of driving today. It was pretty flat, boring country. The highlights were some nice towns - particularly Longreach (the home of Qantas) and Barcaldine (5 pubs, home of the Australian Labor Party). So good for a history lesson. Blackall was a nice town as well. The most southerly pub at Barcaldine gave a good roast beef, and they let me charge my GPS batteries. I ended up campervanning for free in a backstreet in the next town. No pubs, no drunk aborigines, no problem.
e. Day 5: Barcaldine - Augatella - St George. This was another boring day of driving. the last section from Mitchell to St George was a short-cut on a narrow sealed road with woodland on both sides. The implication was that driving required alot of concentration to avoid hitting kangaroos in the late afternoon since there was 250kms of woodland. I had a great meal in the riverside Commercial Hotel, and talked to a local over beer before driving to the edge of town and sleeping in the campervan.
f. Day 6: St George - Goondiwindi - Texas - Inverell - Bundarra - Armidale. I travelled early so again had to watch closly for kangaroos. Came close to hitting 2 of them. One I didnt see because it jumped out in front of me, the other reversed direction to join its mate. Goondiwindi was an ok town. Stopped at the public library to use the internet. From this point you have several options as far as direction - east (Stanthorpe), SE (Texas) or SSW (Moree). I heard Moree was a nice town but I really wanted to see rivers and rangelands. So I followed the Dumareq River up to Texas, then travelled south to Bonshaw, and then Inverell. Inverell was surprisingly prosperous to me. Wealthy cattle and cotton farmers in this area. It was then on to Armidale. I decided to go there via Bundarra since I'd never been out this far west in the New England area. It was very green and attractive country. I would happily live in this area from the border to Walcha. I wanted to visit a friend in Armidale, but couldn't reach him. Drank with some locals instead. Ate a Weds night special at the pub - roast chicken breast and vege for $7 or 2 for $12. Good value. I just parked in the main street opposite a construction site and slept with no disturbance. Maybe because it was cold.
g. Day 7: Armidale - Uralla - Walcha - Novendoc - Gloucester. Went to the library to check my internet. My friend was out in the field so decided to move on. I wanted to visit Walcha and travel down the Thunderbolts Way. This is a more direct alternative route to Sydney which drops down the range rather than going down the Hunter Valley. It is more rugged and an inferior road for the most part, but its more scenic. Stopped at the Bretti Reserve. This is one of my favourite camp spots, but I didnt stay. Its located at the junction of Little Bowman River and the Little Manning River I think, so I think it would make a good canoe entry point in higher water. I stayed the night in Gloucester. Parked next to the public toilets. The swimming pool was closed for renovation (and maybe for winter season still) so I was unable to find a shower, but who cares....I wanted a beer. It was an easy walk to the van, and I just slept in the van.
h. Day 8: Gloucester - Stroud - Raymonds Terrace - Gosford - Sydney - Mascot. I was awoken early by workmen. So after some fruit I got started. About 90minutes later I was in Gosford, emptied the car and was off to Mascot. Before I left I stopped in at a RV-caravan store at Gosford and looked at a camprvan for $94K. It was well furnished but too fully equipped for me. Having checked the location of Britz at Mascot it wasnt too hard to find. I was not aware of the changes on the North Shore Harbour Tunnell however, so I ended up having to go into the city...annoying.

Interestingly I wasnt the only person to have problems with aborigines. A woman travelling with her son was apparently assaulted by an aboriginal guy in the Kempsey (North NSW coastal town) area after he threw a rock at her vehicle. She got out to query him ('Why did you do that?), and she ended up being hit. I suspect the reason might be the presence of a prison in this area, and the aborigines in this town too have a reputation for violence. Its a very boring town - as no facilities...and that might well be because of the violence problem driving away business. If I can give people any insights its the following:
1. Buy your food in grocery stores - cereal & small packets of long life milk, cereal-fruit bars as snacks and fruit each day fresh.
2. The separate (2nd) deep cycle battery will last just 2 days using the fridge, so use the fridge from 12midnight to noon only. You will need to recharge or just buy food fresh.
3. There are no Woolworths or Coles in the outback - except at Katherine, Tennant Creek and Mt Isa...until you get to Tenterfield? This means you will have limited range of items at IGA and Foodworks stores or paying more at independents.
4. Avoid campervanning in towns with aborigines and pubs - the two of them dont mix. Camp in industrial estates, residential areas, not on main roads. Be discrete! Contrary to perception I suspect quiet, dark areas are better for avoiding attention.
5. Petrol is cheapest in Qld - but avoid small towns where you will feel the cost of monopoly advantages, ie. Crossing the border. NSW is more expensive, so buy in Warwick.
6. If your camper does not have shover/toilet facilities there are plenty on the road. Take some toilet paper or tissues in case. You can use public swimming pool facilities in towns, or other sporting clubs, though they seem less frequent outside NSW. I found in public pools in Mt Isa, Goondiwindi, Armidale, Gloucester (under renovation). But there are more if you look.
7. Watch out for kangaroos. You will loose your $1000-1500 excess (bond) if you hit one. Avoid driving in the evenings or morning. They have a habit of darting out from bushes. If one crosses rest assured others will follow, so watch the group. You need to understand how they think...which is pretty poorly!
8. If you are thinking about buying a campervan - this is a pretty good way of selecting the features you need or like.
9. I was disappointed to find that there were very few wifi hotspots in rural Australia - or at least public access ones. All wifi sites I detected were private ADSL connections...and there doesnt seem to be much depend for them. Never saw any people with laptops. I hid mine so I wouldnt attract any attention.
10. I think its best to prepare your own breakfast and lunch and eat dinner out. In rural areas (away from the coast) pub and RSL (returned military serviceman's clubs) offer good value meals, and you can always get cheap Chinese takeout meals for $12-15. For breakfast I was having cereal with long life milk. Lunch was nutella on bread with fruit and carrot sticks, as well a tetra-pack juice and museli bars.
11. I have some thoughts on buying a campervan, but I will post a separate item on that issue.

Selecting a campervan

Its very difficult to select a campervan without first using the vehicle under the conditions you intended. For most of us that is not an option. Nevertheless there are plenty of forums where you can at least get the views of people who have first hand experience – assuming they are not vendors stealthily promoting their own product. I am happily independent in that respect. J Though I would qualify this posting by disclosing that this posting is targeted at a young audience. The problem that I have with the selection of campervans on the market is that they are targeted at retirees. This is evident in:

  1. The size – they are big and cumbersome, suited to slow drivers whom are unlikely to take the vehicle off-road
  2. They are fully-fitted with the luxurious features
  3. They are fitted with a lot of features I don’t want.
  4. They are too expensive – I’m not willing to pay $70-100K for a campervan

Its understandable that this is the way campervan manufacturers are going because when you consider that the babyboomers are retiring with huge wads of cash, and they want all the comforts of home, then its understandable. But from my perspective, I’m not even interested in a heavily discounted 2nd hand ‘mobile retirement home’.
I have been looking at campervans for a few years now, firstly in Australia, then I was looking at importing a cheap one from Japan, and now I am more inclined to buy a cheap chassis and fit it out with the features I like. In coming to this conclusion I have given a lot of thought to the intended use of the vehicle as well as the lowest cost approach. A considered approach really demands that you outline what you will do thoughtout your day, and how you will perform those tasks in a campervan. Eg. Where are you going to shit, can someone see you through the window, will the smell of it prevent you from working on your computer. Unless you ask these very profound philosophical questions you wont know how suited the vehicle is for your intended use. You also need to consider what will change – are you going to get married, go overseas, will it still suit you, and where can you store it. Lifestyle objectives I personally like travelling and spending time in different places. I would prefer to have several cheap homes rather than a single expensive base. Basically I would happily live in a camper, though I need to consider the interests of my GF. Basically all I need is a cheap, small 5acre block of land with a large shed on it, so I can store the campervan an accessories in it. I was actually thinking to build a insulated home within a country shed but maybe I can more cheaply buy a weekender-style home when there is a credit crunch and city farmers are forced to sell. All I need is a link to an international airport to leave the country. My bases are Japan-Philippines-Australia, but since Australia has a ‘Closer Economic Agreement’ with NZ I can freely travel and invest there. My motivation for getting a campervan is:

  1. I love the outdoors/nature
  2. I love doing activities like mountain biking and canoeing that require travelling to remote places
  3. It’s a great way to see the world
  4. It saves a lot of money on food and accommodation
  5. Its more flexible than having a holiday house – where you are stuck in a single location
  6. Its suitable for weekend trips or extended holidays – so its flexible enough to adjust to any lifestyle change like buying a house or having a family

The options Given the current economic expansion, there is a lot of money floating around. Which means things like campervans are really priced for ‘how much you can afford’ as opposed to the cost+profit margin that drives a competitive market? For this reason I am steering away from these ready-made solutions, which offer a fairly basic campervan for $70-100K (depending on the number and quality of fittings). Another reason for steering away from these factory-made designs is that their functionality is not sustainable. Coastal caravan parks are disappearing because of the rapid rise in the value of the land, and its redevelopment. The traditional caravan park was often on an attractive beach, but now they are quickly disappearing or rising in prices. You now have to pay $27-50 per night to stay on-site with a campervan, when all you really need is a shit, shower and a battery recharge. The ‘retiree’ is perhaps comfortable using these facilities because they have loads of cash, and value the security, but I would prefer to:

  1. Select a more flexible design that allows me to stay anywhere
  2. Select a design that allows me to stay off-grid for at least 4 days
  3. Select a design that allows me to inconspicuously spend the night in residential areas, in the middle of town, next to a mountain stream or along a quiet beach.

Design features I don’t want to pay a premium for services of marginal benefit. For that reason I want to economise on features. I want the flexibility to have a shower, but I don’t need a dedicated shower. I don’t need a hotplate because I would prefer a steamer. I don’t need a TV or video because I can use my laptop. Australia is a mostly dry country, so I will content myself with a fan. I do however want a quality 60litre refrigerator because I want to stock food for >3 days. I need a table and chair that converts into a double bed. The intention for cutting back of features is to increase my access to remote places as well as make driving the vehicle less cumbersome. There are just too many places you cant take a big vehicle, and the cost of insuring such a beast is not worth it. I want to customise a campervan to have just the features I need…and I want it all contained in a tight space, so that requires some design. More challenging is to make it a place a woman would feel comfortable. The features I am looking for are:

  1. Fuel economy – a 2-2.4 litre engine for good fuel efficiency but reasonable power.
  2. Basic features – 60L fridge/freezer, water pump, double bed, chair, table, windows, sun & fly screen.
  3. Accessories – computer, handheld devices (GPS, camera, cell phone), toaster, steamer, shaver, fan, fire extinguisher,
  4. Energy supply – power points, solar panels, generator, deep cycle batteries (3x), diesel generator (1hp), inverter, diodes, etc, with the intent of getting solar panels when they become cheaper and more energy efficient.
  5. Good clearance – whether from short wheel base or good vertical clearance
  6. Vehicle length – I don’t want the vehicle to be too long so I can easily turn around on rural tracks.
  7. Good shape & design – inclined windscreen to reduce the likelihood of breakage, flat rood for storage and solar panel mounting. Good internal shape for fitout and interior design
  8. Height – I have not decided if I want a hi-top or normal level because although its nice to have head clearance in the vehicle, this needs to be weighed up against the possibility of hitting overhead trees in the bush and wind shear while driving. I was originally against pop-up designs because I saw idiots puncturing the canvas with knives. But I am inclined to only use the pop-up feature if I am in the sun during the day, and leave it down at night when I am less mobile anyway.

Approach to purchase

At this point I see 3 options:

  1. Buying a 2nd hand campervan in Japan – export to NZ or Australia. There are a multitude of companies that export cars from Japan.
  2. Buying a 4WD chassis in Japan (say a Mitsubishi Delica), exporting to Australia before fitting out the interior. Japan drives on the same side of the road, their cars are fully accessorised and they are under-loved after 5yrs of service despite limited road kms.
  3. Buying a 2nd hand or new chassis in Australia and fitting it out here. The basic chassis is likely to cost $20-25K for a 5yr old vehicle. See www.discountusedcars.com.au.

Possible Chassis

There are a large number of possible chassis available. I identified the following models on the www.discountusedcars.com.au websites:

  1. Volkswagen: This is the chassis for the campervan I used travelling from Darwin to Sydney. The engine torque was great, though the gear shifts were difficult for me. I was often stalling finding 1st gear. I also find this vehicle to big and thus awkward to park and certainly impossible to take off-road. Transporter: This is a VW van. It is a good size and comes in a high-head room model.
  2. Mitsubishi: Mitsubishi don’t have the best reputation. Arguably they are not designed for Aust, but I’ll look at the kilometres on the odometer of a few models to judge their performance. Anything over 300K is doing well. Delica – I like this vehicle because its very popular model in Japan, thus an easy 2nd hand purchase. There is a 4WD version, it has a short wheel base with very good clearance. Express 4WD: There are not many models, so maybe hard to find parts. StarWagon 4WD: There are not many models, but they might be ok, but bad for parts.
  3. Toyota: Toyota offers a range of models. They are a popular car manufacturer and its generally easy to get parts for these popular chassis. Hiace – The Hiace is a popular chassis for the hi-top ‘bubble’ style campervans you see around. Some of these are 4WD. I like these for security reasons over the ‘pop up’ type roofs because its more discrete campervanning (since no one knows your inside if you close the curtains). The downside is the high profile which can be dangerous in wind gusts on the open road. A sudden wind gust could push you into an oncoming truck. Townace: This is a basic van – the 1994 and 2000 models are very different looks. They are a small van. Landcruiser – there is a’hi-top’ version which I like since it has just basic features. The problem with this is again the high roof (good & bad) as well as the small storage space. The other bad feature is the high fuel consumption. The good news is that you often have a 2nd fuel tank so you have greater range and you need not pay exorbitant prices at petrol stations with a ‘remote’ market monopoly. You can get a 2003 model with 200K for $20-23K. I think this is not a city vehicle. Models can have an eski or standard style frig. It comes with a sink and burner I don’t need. Coaster: This is a Toyota bus of moderate size. Too big for my needs I think. It has a rear door, some with seats. Problem with low clearance. You can get a 1995 bus fitted out for campervanning for $72K. An older unit strikes me as a good vehicle to place on a block of land? Or might a shed be better?
  4. Iveco: They produce a range of commercial vehicles. Daily Van: This is a good shape vehicle.
  5. Ford: There are a range of Fords that would make good campervans: Econovan: Some people have fitted these out with hightops. I saw a 1991 model with fittings for $7400 at www.discountusedcars.com.au. I don’t trust the odometer reading though – 103K – nonsense. But I could always buy a later model say 2002 for $10-12,000 and fit it out. Transit: There was a 1998 diesel model for sale for $5500 that had done 450,000kms. That’s good to know. This is a wider vehicle with a hitop. There are shorter wheel-based models as well.
  6. Nissan: They have several camper/van types. Urvan/Camper GL 1983: This is a longer wheeled bus-type.
  7. Mercedes Sprinter Van: This is a good van for conversion.
  8. Renault: They are not a popular car supplier to Australia. Ducato: This is an appealing van I have seen converted into a campervan.

Ultimate decision
The ultimate decision upon which chassis to buy will depend on:

  1. The price of the vehicle – new or 2nd hand
  2. The vehicle which will comfortable fit all my features
  3. The vehicle that offers the best selection of parts in Australia
  4. The vehicle with the best road handling characteristics and durability

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